Seal Your Heating and Cooling Ducts
Ducts are used to distribute conditioned air throughout houses with forced-air heating and cooling systems. In typical houses, about 20 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks, holes, and poorly connected ducts. The result is an inefficient HVAC system, high utility bills, and difficulty keeping the house comfortable, no matter how the thermostat is set.
Common Duct Problems
- A Leaky, torn, and disconnected ducts
- B Poorly sealed registers and grills
- C Leaks at furnace and filter slot
- D Kinks in flexible ductwork restricting airflow
Simple Steps to Improving Duct Performance
Because ducts are often concealed in walls, ceilings, attics, and basements,
repairing them can be difficult. But there are things that you can do to improve duct performance in your house.
Start by sealing leaks using mastic sealant or metal (foil) tape and insulating all the ducts that you can access such as those in the attic, crawl space, basement, or garage. Never use ‘duct tape,’ as it is not long-lasting.
Also make sure that the connections at vents and registers are well-sealed where they meet the floors, walls, and ceiling. These are common locations to find leaks and disconnected ductwork.
Working with a Contractor
Many homeowners choose to hire a professional contractor for duct improvement projects. Most heating and cooling contractors also repair ductwork. Look for a contractor who will:
- Inspect the whole duct system, including the attic, basement, and crawl space (if you have these).
- Repair or replace damaged, disconnected, or undersized ducts and straighten out flexible ducts that are tangled or crushed.
- Evaluate the system’s supply and return air balance. Many systems have air return ducts that are too small.
- Seal leaks and connections with mastic, metal tape, or an aerosol-based sealant.
- Seal gaps behind registers and grills where the duct meets the floor, wall, or ceiling.
- Insulate ducts in unconditioned areas with insulation that carries an R-value of 6 or higher.
- Include a new filter as part of any duct system improvement.
- Use diagnostic tools to evaluate air flow after repairs are completed.
- Ensure there is no back drafting of gas or oil-burning appliances, and conduct a combustion safety test after ducts are sealed.
Why do the thieves go to the trouble to steal HVAC systems? Copper prices have gone through the roof, at over $3 a pound in some places. A lot of people are seeing it as an easy way to make fast money. Since April 2005, the price of copper pipe and tubing has risen nearly 71 percent. Thieves steal it and re-sell it. Air Conditioners are a favorite target for copper thieves because the copper cooling coils can be easily folded and stored. One AC coil could fetch between $50 to $100 in copper.
The salvage yards and recycling plants take it in virtually every form. Copper is 100 percent recyclable and selling scrap copper can be lucrative. Recyclers on average pay 90 percent of the new copper price, or more than $3 a pound for scrap, according to the Copper Development Association.
Recyclers cannot tell if copper items have been stolen because there are no identifiers. This is a major concern for business and also residential owners. Some business owners are responding to the thefts by installing cages or fences around their HVAC units.
If you need help with anti-theft devices, please call us for an evaluation of your infrastructure and learn about options to protect your investment. Having to get an air conditioner replacement can be costly at an inopportune time for you.
Reduction of tiny particles such as these can help prevent many illnesses, general lethargy, sneezing, sore throats, headaches and other symptoms triggered by pollution.
Read More About This ArticleWhat is a heat pump?
Let us help you understand what a heat pump is, because many people still have difficulty understanding just how a heat pump works and how an air conditioner can provide heat and keep you warm. Heat pumps can operate on gas or electricity.
- Definition of a heat pump for inquiring minds: in the heating mode, a heat pump is a reverse air conditioner. In the summer, a heat pump or an air conditioner, extracts heat from within your house and discharges it outside, leaving the air inside the building cooler. In the winter, by reversing the flow of refrigerant and it’s utilization, it extracts heat from outside of the house and brings it inside where it is sent into the house or building through the ductwork.
- How does it do that? All air has heat in it. When you take 72 degree (F) air and remove 10 degrees of heat from it, you now have 62 degree air. That’s what a heat pump does. Through reverse refrigeration, a heat pump can extract heat from the outside air by extracting (absorbing) it into the refrigerant via the compressor, a process of heat exchange, and it can do this more efficiently and cleaner than any other type of system, except when the outside temperature gets down around 32 degrees.
- What is the advantage of a Dual Fuel System? No other system operates more efficiently and cost effectively for heating than a heat pump within a certain temperature range. A heat pump’s capacity or heating capability is reduced when the outside temperature falls below 32 degrees when it typically has to use an electric strip heater to provide the supplementary heat needed at these times. When this happens on a heat pump you may see a light indicating “auxiliary heat”.
- When combining the efficiency of a heat pump during it’s peak operating period with a high efficiency gas furnace, oil furnace or boiler for the times when it is less efficient, a Dual Fuel System provides the maximum efficiency, payback and comfort level of both fuels and systems available.
- Who should install a dual fuel system? Customers who already have furnaces in their homes and whose central air conditioners need replacing. When their air conditioner goes bad, some consumers are upgrading with a heat pump to work in conjunction with their existing furnace. This gives them the advantage of a new air conditioner for better cooling comfort and a heat pump (the same piece of equipment outside), which can be used most efficiently for heating on those days when the temperature is above 32 degrees.
- The largest group is homeowners interested in dual fuel systems are those that have watched oil prices rocket to record highs these past months, and which are predicted to rise even higher this winter…people who have read various consumer reports like the Energy Department report not long ago, that stated “Winter heating bills will be a 33% to 50% higher for most families across the country, with the sharpest increases expected for those who heat with natural gas”, the Energy Department forecast recently.
- How do I benefit? If you have an oil or gas system, you can benefit by adding an electric system (heat pump). If you presently have an electric system (heat pump) you can still benefit by adding oil or natural gas. Dual Fuel heating enables you to add a second heating system to your current system and gives you an appealing alternative to the roller coaster pricing of fuel oil and most gas heating systems because Dual Fuel rates are most likely to remain stable year round.
Trusted solution for emergency power!
When power goes out, your home comfort is on the line. The Carrier home comfort system is tailored to meet your needs for a totally automatic backup power source to your home. Standby generators can run on natural or LP gas and have automatic startup and shutdown controls.
Benefits
- You can live a relatively normal life even during extended power outages
- The backup power system keeps your heating and cooling system up and running while also providing power to lights, furnaces, air conditioners, sump pumps, computers and more.
- There’s no need to do anything! The system automatically senses loss of power and restores power to selected circuits in about 30 seconds.
- The generator is more convenient and more powerful than portable generators which typically supply power to just a few extension cords.
Quiet, Safe and Convenient
Its nice to know that you can enjoy unlimited backup power that’s quieter than portable generators, lawn mowers and even some hair dryers. When power is out, the last thing you’re worried about is how much noise your generator is making.
Generators are not only loud and inconvenient, they can use up 400 gallons of gas during a two-week outage. A power loss at the gas station will make refilling the unit difficult if not impossible.
The generator is not only reliable and safe, it’s also UL 2200 listed.
Warranty
The generator is backed with a two-year limited parts and labor warranty.
Call All Quality Heating & Air today to find out more details and a free estimate.
Freon is a refrigerant used for most home heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) units in America. While only a brand name of DuPont, the name “freon” often represents all HCFC refrigerants. The makeup of freon includes hydrogen, carbon, fluorine, and chlorine, or HCFC (hydro chlorofluorocarbons).
Read More About This ArticleCommon problems with existing air conditioners result from faulty installation, poor service procedures, and inadequate maintenance. Improper installation of your air conditioner can result in leaky ducts and low airflow. Many times, the refrigerant charge (the amount of refrigerant in the system) does not match the manufacturer’s specifications. If proper refrigerant charging is not performed during installation, the performance and efficiency of the unit is impaired. Service technicians often fail to find refrigerant charging problems or even worsen existing problems by adding refrigerant to a system that is already full.
Air conditioner manufacturers generally make rugged, high quality products. However, an air conditioner’s filters, coils, and fins require regular maintenance for the unit to function effectively and efficiently throughout its years of service. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases. Inadequate maintenance to components will cause the air conditioner will not work properly, and the compressor or fans are likely to fail prematurely. If your air conditioner fails, it is usually for one of the common reasons listed below:
Refrigerant Leaks: If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, either it was undercharged at installation, or it leaks. If it leaks, simply adding refrigerant is not a solution. A trained technician should fix any leak, test the repair, and then charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant. Remember that the performance and efficiency of your air conditioner is greatest when the refrigerant charge exactly matches the manufacturer’s specification, and is neither undercharged nor overcharged.
Electric Control Failure: The compressor and fan controls can wear out, especially when the air conditioner turns on and off frequently, as is common when a system is oversized. Because corrosion of wire and terminals is also a problem in many systems, electrical connections and contacts should be checked during a professional service call.
Air Conditioner Filters: The most important maintenance task that will ensure the efficiency of your air conditioner is to routinely replace or clean its filters. Clogged, dirty filters block normal airflow and reduce a system’s efficiency significantly. With normal airflow obstructed, air that bypasses the filter may carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil and impair the coil’s heat-absorbing capacity. Filters are located somewhere along the return duct’s length. Common filter locations are in walls, ceilings, furnaces, or in the air conditioner itself. Some types of filters are reusable; others must be replaced. They are available in a variety of types and efficiencies. Clean or replace your air conditioning system’s filter or filters every month or two during the cooling season.
Filters may need more frequent attention if the air conditioner is in constant use, is subjected to dusty conditions, or you have fur-bearing pets in the house. Regular maintenance of air conditioner coils, cooling fins, and fans will lead to a longer, more efficient service life.
Air Conditioner Coils: The air conditioner’s evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces air flow and insulates the coil which reduces its ability to absorb heat. Therefore, your evaporator coil should be checked every year and cleaned as necessary.
Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins. You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) allow for adequate air flow around the condenser.
Coil Fins: The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block air flow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a “fin comb” that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.
Sealing and Insulating Air Ducts: Insulating air ducts prevents the loss of hot or cool air before it reaches individual rooms. An enormous waste of energy occurs when cooled air escapes from supply ducts or when hot attic air leaks into return ducts. Recent studies indicate that 10 percent to 30 percent of the conditioned air in an average central air conditioning system escapes from the ducts. For central air conditioning to be efficient, ducts must be airtight. Hiring a competent professional service technician to detect and correct duct leaks is a good investment, since leaky ducts may be difficult to find without experience and test equipment. Ducts must be sealed with duct “mastic.”
The old standby of duct tape is ineffective for sealing ducts. Obstructions can impair the efficiency of a duct system almost as much as leaks. You should be careful not to obstruct the flow of air from supply or return registers with furniture, drapes, or tightly fitted interior doors. Dirty filters and clogged evaporator coils can also be major obstructions to air flow. The large temperature difference between attics and ducts makes heat conduction through ducts almost as big a problem as air leakage and obstructions. Ducts in attics should be insulated heavily in addition to being made airtight.
Below are some tips, advice and maintenance guidelines for your outdoor air conditioner and/or heat pump. These tips are for better efficiency, longer life, and easier service.
Most of the information here applies to both air conditioners and heat pumps. But read carefully, some of the information is for one or the other. If you follow any of these tips make sure you know if you have a heat pump or an air conditioner or damage could result.
TIPS FOR BETTER EFFICIENCY:
1 – Set thermostat at one temperature. Constant adjusting can cause higher utility costs. If using your thermostat as a setback type, limit the setbacks to twice a day such as when you are at work and when you are sleeping. Only setback the thermostat 6% of desired temperature (approximately five degrees).
In heating, try not to set the thermostat below 65 degrees or above 75 degrees. Below 65 degrees a heat pump just won’t put out enough heat and above 75 degrees is using too much energy. In cooling, try not to set the thermostat below 70 degrees. Besides higher utility costs, this can cause the indoor coil to freeze and cause condensation in the house.
2 – Keep coils clean. If they get dirty you can use a heavy duty degreaser and hose them down. Just turn the unit off first.
3 – Don’t stack things on top of the unit. If the fan is on the top the air-flow cannot be restricted. Do not put your rolled-up garden hose or landscaping products on the unit. We see this all the time.
4 – When mowing the lawn, direct the mower away from the unit. A coil blocked with grass clippings and debris drastically reduces the efficiency.
5 – When using a weed whacker be careful near the unit. Debris can damage the coil, flatten the aluminum fins, and cut the thermostat wires; shorting out the transformer. We see this all the time and it is an expensive repair bill.
COMMON SENSE TIPS:
1 – Don’t plant prickly bushes like roses or holly around the unit. No one will want to service it.
2 – Don’t grow a garden or plant exotic flowers around the outdoor unit and expect the service technician to tip-toe around everything.
3 – When planting shrubs don’t block the access panels or the coil. Plan to keep 18 to 30 inches around the unit. Don’t forget to plan for the growth of the shrubs five, ten, even fifteen years down the road.
4 – Many people like to completely hide the outdoor unit behind shrubs. If you do this don’t be surprised if the technician refuses to service the unit. Please have some consideration and leave a path wide enough to accommodate the tech and his tools and room to work.
5 – Having crushed stone around the unit is best. It allows for good drainage, keeps the unit level and from sinking, keeps the coils clean from washed-up grass and dirt and also keeps the service technicians shoes clean. This will also keep your floors and carpeting clean.
6 – If building a fence around the unit allow for room to service, even replace the unit. If any major repairs need to be made, the service man may need access to all sides on the unit. Don’t expect the service tech to have to jump or climb over a fence. The unit needs to be serviced regularly. Install a gate that can be easily opened. We constantly see fences with out gates and the customer expects the tech to unbolt the fence and then re-install it when he is finished. Very Inconsiderate.
HEAT PUMPS ONLY:
1 – Keep snow, ice, and leaves away from the outdoor unit. This includes the top, sides, and bottom.
2 – Make it a habit to look at the outdoor heat pump during the winter months for signs of excessive ice or snow build-up on or around the heat pump. Especially after bad weather.
If the unit is covered in ice or snow it must be removed for it to work properly. Turn the thermostat to Emergency heat or off and remove the snow and ice. You can pour warm or hot water over the unit to melt the snow and ice. Even cold water from a hose will help. Do not use any sharp objects to pick or knock the ice off the coils of the heat pump. This could cause severe damage and personal injury. Once the unit is clear of snow and ice turn the thermostat back to normal heating. If the unit ices up again, call for service.
3 – Do not let the outdoor unit sit underneath a leaking gutter. In the winter months, water will drip on the top of the unit and freeze solid. This will restrict the air flow and cause the whole unit to freeze-up.
4 – Heat Pumps should be elevated 4 to 8 inches above ground level to keep coils clear of snow and ice and to allow for proper drainage. Contact our Service Department if you would like your unit raised.
AIR CONDITIONERS ONLY:
1 – Cover the outdoor unit including top and sides in the fall and winter when the air conditioner is not in use. Great for areas with lots of trees where falling branches can damage the unit. Also keeps heavy ice from bending the fan blades and hale from damaging the coil.
Caution, this is for air conditioners only, not heat pumps and make sure the unit is off. Do not attempt to run the air conditioning with the outdoor unit covered. Also remember to remove the cover in Spring before turning on the air.
If a room is not getting cooled or heated like the other rooms, it’s very likely there are some simple checks to do before calling your service company. Here are some checks:
- Check the air filters – both at the intake and return if any. They may be dirty or blocked.
- Check the air registers to the room(s). Are they open, blocked/covered? If they are not, are the windows/doors sealed around the frame? You may have a room that is not well insulated.
- If there is less air flow through the register, it’s likely the air duct to the room is long, has some restrictions, or a damper may be partially closed. Check the ductwork if it’s in the basement or attic. Open the damper if there’s one.
Simple steps like sealing window and door gaps, drawing the curtains when it’s the height of summer, and closing registers in un-used rooms can only help your A/C and reduce energy bills.
We can do a thorough inspection and energy audit of your home, so give us a call to save on your energy bills this season.
If a room is not getting cooled or heated like the other rooms, it’s very likely there are some simple checks to do before calling your service company. Here are some of the checks you can perform:
- Check the air filters – both at the intake and return if any. They may be dirty of blocked.
- Check the air vents to the room(s). Are they open, blocked/covered?
- If there is less air flow through the register, it’s likely the air duct to the room is long, has some restrictions, or a damper may be partially closed. Check the ductwork if it’s in the basement or attic. Open the damper if there’s one.
- If there is low air pressure coming from all the room vents, it’s likely that the fan motor speed is not right. This does require a professional, so give us a call today.
